Dolman Shirts Head to Head pt 2

This blog has been in the planning for ages, but I got stuck sewing one shirt over and over, and then I needed pants more than shirts, we moved, and moved again, started homeschooling, and well life has been crazy!
But George and I buckled down and got it done!

But I'm still working on my plan to #sewallthedolmans And making progress on that. Though in the time it's taken me to write this and sew up the dolmans for this blog, I've moved my number of patterns to try from 7 to 14! And many new patterns have come out that I don't even have because I can't justify ANOTHER pattern right now for a dolman shirt.  I may NEVER sew them all! lol

So today's blog will focus on 5 patterns, some of which are free just like last time. I decided this time to make the sleeves as the pattern directs rather than alter them all to long sleeved like last time. Although I did add cuffs to one and will denote that in my info.

I picked fabrics that were called for in the patterns, had the right stretch, or that I had enough of to make each pattern from. So it's not quite as similar as last time. Sorry. But hopefully it's still a helpful comparison.

I took the most unflattering angles so you can see exactly how each top fits, A straight from the front, side view, arms straight out(to compare the "wings", and then a nicer photo.
So without further ado Dolman Shirts HEAD to HEAD pt 2!

First up is the Cloud 9 Tee from Striped Swallow Designs

• This pattern has Layers and no trim the pages. 
• Pattern is written for size xs - xxxl 
• pattern has long and short sleeves
• I use a XL shirt for the front panel, and some white cotton spandex for the rest. 
• I made a size Medium bust and graded to a Large hip. This shirt is one of my favorites as the fit required no alterations other than grading. I didn't even have to size up the sleeves like I usually do for my thicker biceps! I've made 3 of these in various fabrics and can say rayon spandex is dreamy, and likely my favorite fabric for this top, but all of the WORKED and I got wearable shirts. 
• This pattern is free with a code in the group! 
• I made my own neckband as before but I should have made it a touch wider. I served off a lot on this one and the band is more narrow than I like. 
• directions were totally fine. Plenty of inspiration photos, Clear pictures and text for each step and easy to follow.

Kirsten Kimono Tee from Maria Denmark

• This pattern is Free! 
• it has no layers and you do need to trim the pages. 
• patten does NOT include seam allowance so you have to figure that on your own. I made the mistake of forgetting that the first time and had to scrap my project. 
• I made size M bust, L waist, and XL hip. 
• fabric is a walmart value french terry with a little one way stretch. I didn't hem the sleeves as I wanted to add self drafted longer ones after this so that edge is raw. 
• Pattern is Short Sleeved only as written
• I used my own neckband measurements but there is some suggestions in the directions about doing it with measurements, or calculating stretch.
  The pattern also has directions for using fold over elastic on the neckline which could be a neat feature if you used some fancy stuff. 
• I really liked the outcome of this one. It has that comfy tee-shirt feel that I love so much. I did take a bit too much of my own seam allowance so I had to let it out a bit under the arms. I fixed this easily since I had just basted the side hems. But make sure you pay attention to how much seam allowance you add and stay within that. I recommend adding 1/2 and inch and basting so you get the best fit. 
• The pattern has minimal sewing directions, but if you've made one basic dolman then you can make this one even without pictures. There ARE pictures when you get to the collar portion to explain that part. 

Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti Fabrics

• This pattern is free! 
• pattern is OS (max bust size is 58") and hand drawn
• No layers due to OS
• It features a 3/4 sleeve
• there is no band on the neckline, this pattern has you turn under the neckline and stitch it down. This makes it SUPER fast. 
• I used a silvery grey velour from walmart for this pattern. 
• Fit is ok. I like the style of the body, but the sleeves were tight on me. I am unsure if this is due to my fabric choice or the pattern itself. I have just enough fabric to fix it I just haven't yet. Personally I'd add more seam allowance or sew on a smaller one to make them slightly larger, or just cut about 1/2 inch off the seam allowance for the width to give more room.
  The shirt itself is a very boxy fit and would be flattering on many body types. I actually gained weight and inches in my bust/hips/ and belly since making it and that part of the shirt all still fits and looks fine. 
• directions include pictures and text. 

Hamburg Dolman by Shwin Designs

• Pattern is NOT free
• This pattern has no Layers and trim pages
• I made a size M bust L hip
• I used fabric upcycled from a knit bed sheet we had retired. 
• My FAVORITE part about this shirt is it is both a dolman AND a raglan. Which can make from some fun color blocking. As such though it does use more fabric that the typical dolman to get the proper shape to the sleeves. 
• Pattern has both a short and long sleeved option. (I made Long)
• This pattern is very detailed about what all the sewing terms mean and included digitally drawn pictures as well to describe these terms. It also includes info on checking your fabrics for the required stretch. 
• pattern includes pattern pieces for the neckband, optional banded hem, and the cuffs. 
• Pattern has digitally drawn photos for the instructions. 
• I felt like the fit and cut of this shirt is VERY flattering. I am not super tall, but am short waisted and long torso'd with an hourglass/pear shape. (depending on my measurements at the time.) I made this top last year and it still fits despite gaining weight and changing shape. 

Jalie 3354

• This pattern has no layers
• This pattern is not free
• Pattern had long and Short sleeved options but long sleeves are not wrist length, rather 3/4 ish.
• Sizes are letter based so I made a size S bodice and U hips. Personally I find this method of sizing obnoxious but Jalie runs from size 4- 22 so you get a LOT of bang for your buck. 
• Pattern has lots of info on sewing and techniques as well. 
• I used a green sweater knit from Knitpop and I can't recall if it's a hacci or something else. It has a feel similar to chenille but finer texture to the knit and the threads are not chunky. 
• the pattern has info on hemming the neckline, or using a binding. I choose to do a band instead and used my own measurements for this. I also cut diagonally so the stripes run on an angle rather than straight across. ;) 
• I added VERY long cuffs to mine as I do NOT like 3/4 sleeves. Be long or be short all ready! lol 
• I'm ok with the fit of this shirt. I gained weight since making it and frankly I wasn't enamored with it before that either. I don't know if it's the fabric itself, or the cut but I just don't like how it hugs so much. It is soft and comfy so I will likely wear it still but not as frequently as other things I've made or that I've bought. 

In conclusion....

of this batch I think my favorite is a tie between the cloud 9(Did I mention I made 3 of those over the summer and fall?) and the Hamburg because I love the cut of the shirt and the raglan sleeve effect. They are both so different I don't think I could pick a favorite! So each of these will also be in my same fabrics lineup when I do a favorites comparison.

If you haven't read part one of this series check that out here>>> (this will open in a new window/tab)

Dolman Shirts Head to Head part 1

I've been loosing inches, and dropping sizes while eating on THM. As a result almost none of the clothing I sewed up last year is going to fit me properly this fall/winter.
While going through my patterns to decide what to make I realized I own 8 different dolman style top patterns. EIGHT. That's quite a few.

I'd really only sewn up 2, and thought in light of my clothing needs it would be a good opportunity to sew up a shirt form each pattern and compare patterns, fit, and such for the internet.

I'm going to be sewing up 7 of those patterns, some of which are free by joining facebook groups in order to get codes for thier shops. And I'm going to break this into two posts.

SOme of these were turned from long into shortsleeves by myself. I will denote this in the description. None of these patterns were given to me for this post. This is purely my opinions and based on my experiences.

I tried to use fabrics that had similar drape and thickness in hand. This was mostly successful. though a few will need to be remade in other fabrics to see if I REALLY like the fit as they turned out a bit differently than I thought they would due to fabric choices.

I took the most unflattering angles so you can see exactly how each top fits, A straight from the front, side view, arms straight out(to compare the "wings", and then a nicer photo.

So without further ado Dolman Shirts HEAD to HEAD pt 1.

First up is the HALA SLIM DOLMAN 

• This pattern has layers and no trim pages. Which makes assembly pretty fast.
• Measurements for cuffs and band are on the pattern. 
• I used a sweater knit from my stash that I've had so long I have no idea the fabric content. But I think it's a cotton spandex blend.
• I made this in a size 6 which was not graded. It's a bit snug in the belly. If I wanted a FABULOUS fit, I'd really need to do a full tummy adjustement or size up in the tummy and hips. I have a long torso, but my waist is really high. Just for refrence. This might have changed fit some if the fabric had a touch more drape or stretch.
• The directions were clear and simple lots of tips for altering the pattern to have deeper "wings" or more slim ones, alter the neckline, etc. directions are photos and text based. 
• I used my own neck band calculations for the neckline as I don't find that following the Suggested measurements results well for me.
• I made the long sleeved version and cut to the longest length then added cuffs. as I typically do with any pattern as I get cold otherwise.

GRAINLINE HEMLOCK

• This is a OS pattern so it is very loose and straight. It fits up to a 43.5 inch bust and 45 inch hip. as such there are no layers. This pattern will need trimmed to assemble. 
•  I used a very drapey sweater knit for this one. It's practically see through and heavier than I thought. I want to make this one up in another fabric and see how I feel about it then.
• Directions are line drawings and simple like any dolman construction. It's a bit trickier to add the sleeves and sew the side since I used a serger and due to the angles on the body and sleeve.
• I used my own neckband calculations on this one as sweater knit drapes and stretches so much more differently than other fabrics with lots of spandex in them. 
• This pattern has both a  long and short sleeved option. I used the long sleeved but did not add a cuff. I may go back and add one later as the sleeves are a bit shorter than I like. 

George and Ginger I Heart U

• This is another free pattern in the george and Ginger facebook group. It's intended to be a pajama set and comes with a shorties pattern as well. It has no layers, And no trim pages, but is very well marked so that I had no trouble marking and tracing my size with ease. Even though I use a black and white printer. 
• I used a rib knit from joanns for this one. It's drapey and comfy and will be perfect when fall weather finally hits. 
• directions are clear line drawings and there are photos of finished garments as well. It's another with simple construction so I honestly just glanced over them. Once you've sewn a few dolmans you don't usually need directions for them. 
• I used my own neckband calculations. and cut it the opposite direction of the stretch for an interesting detail. 

This pattern only comes in short sleeves. I drafted a new sleeve using the long sleeve part of the sweet tee from patterns for pirates, grading from the wrist to the width I needed to match the width of the sleeve opening.

Patterns for Pirates Sweet Tee

• This pattern is NOT free. I made a size M with Large sleeves as her patterns tend to be snug fitting in the sleeves and I don't care for that. It's got layers, and no trim pages. 
• I used a cotton lycra for the front of this top as well as the sleeves and cuffs/neckband. and a Jersey for the back. I had this one all ready cut out in this fabric and sitting waiting to be sewn up so I didn't move to another material. 
• directions are step by step photos and text. So very easy to follow even for a beginner. I made almost only this pattern last summer and basically lived in it so I was all ready very familiar with the process though. 
• I used my own neckband calculations. 
• I sewed up the long sleeves version, cut to the longest length and then added cuffs again. 

Patterns for Pirates Pumpkin Spice Dolman

• This pattern is NOT free. I made a size small, with Medium sleeves. I could have sized up a bit but this pattern tends to run large so I made a smaller size. In hindsight due to my material I wish I had sized up.  This has layers and No trim pages. 
• I used an unknown fiber content sweater knit I got in a remnant bin from a warehouse sale for this one. I THINK it's a poly blend baby terry. but not sure. It's very hot for being so thin. 
• Directions are step by step photos and text. Super easy for beginners to follow. 
• I used my own neckband calculations. 
• I sewed the long sleeved version of this pattern. Cut to longest length with cuffs added to that. 

In conclusion.....

I think my favorite after seeing photos is the sweet tee. With the grainline hemlock coming in second. I hope to sew up another of both of these and compare to my favorite of the next batch. The plan will be to sew all of those in the same fabric content to get the best comparison.

If you have any questions please leave them in the comments and I will answer as well as update the post with the information!